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Recipe

1890s Bread and Butter Pickles

Sweet-sour cucumber chips with onion and turmeric: a late nineteenth-century relish for sandwiches and cold meat.

Pouring brine into a glass jar of sliced cucumbers for homemade pickles

Context

Bread-and-butter pickles sat on the table with cold meat and Sunday bread: sweet-sour cucumber chips with onion and turmeric.

Late nineteenth-century American households put up cucumber pickles in many styles. Bread-and-butter pickles are the sweet-sour chip style with onion, turmeric for yellow color, and mustard and celery seed in the brine. They belonged beside cold meat, cheese, and sandwiches, not only as a modern hamburger garnish.

Historical put-up methods are not automatically safe by modern standards. Older books may use open-kettle approaches, sealing methods, or vinegar strengths that do not match today’s tested guidance. The handbook keeps the flavor tradition while separating refrigerator pickles from shelf-stable canning.

Turmeric’s color became part of the public identity of the style. Mustard seed and celery seed perfume the brine. Sugar balances vinegar. Salt draws water from cucumbers before brining in many formulas, improving texture.

Cucumber variety matters. Small pickling cucumbers with sound skins give better chips than overgrown seedy slicers. Thin, even slices brine more evenly. That produce advice is as old as the relish itself.

The name “bread and butter” is often explained as a thrifty sandwich pickle that made simple bread meals more satisfying. Whatever the folk etymology, the culinary role is clear: a sweet-tart relish for plain savory foods.

Celery seed can dominate if you are heavy-handed. Start with period-modest amounts and adjust next batch. Fresh spices make a brighter brine than jars that have sat open for years.

Old practices are interesting, but age does not automatically make a method safer or better. Use this recipe as historical cookery translated for a modern kitchen, with clear temperatures, clean storage, and no nostalgia for hardship.

Onion slices should be thin enough to soften in the brine without turning stringy. A sweet onion is pleasant but not required; yellow storage onions are historically ordinary. The cucumber-to-onion ratio can lean cucumber-heavy for a cleaner chip pickle.

Vinegar type changes aroma. Cider vinegar is common in American sweet pickles; distilled vinegar tastes sharper and clearer. Use what your tested modern canning recipe specifies when you are processing for the shelf.

What changed

Modern tested water-bath canning and clear acidity guidance from sources such as the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning and the National Center for Home Food Preservation changed what “putting up” should mean for shelf storage. Refrigerator pickles offer a shorter path when you do not need pantry jars.

Modern kitchen notes

For refrigerator pickles, pack cucumbers and onion, pour hot sweet-sour brine, cool, and keep jars cold. For shelf storage, use a current tested bread-and-butter recipe and process in a boiling-water canner, adjusting for altitude. Do not invent your own low-acid shortcuts.

Safety note

Water-bath canning requires a tested, properly acidified recipe. When in doubt, refrigerate. Discard jars with spurting liquid, off smells, or unsealed lids. Clean produce and jars matter as much as the brine formula.

Ingredients

  • 2 lb pickling cucumbers, thinly sliced
  • 1 large onion, thinly sliced
  • 2 tbsp pickling or kosher salt
  • 1½ cups cider vinegar
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 tbsp mustard seed
  • 1 tsp celery seed
  • ½ tsp ground turmeric

Instructions

  1. Toss cucumbers and onion with salt. Cover with ice; rest 2 hours. Drain and rinse.
  2. Boil vinegar, sugar, mustard seed, celery seed, and turmeric until sugar dissolves.
  3. Add vegetables; return to a bare simmer for 5 minutes.
  4. Pack into clean jars with brine. For refrigerator pickles, cool and refrigerate up to 1 month. For pantry storage, process in a boiling-water bath using a current tested method.