A 1940s Wartime Cake: The Original and a Modern Version

A cake built for a kitchen without eggs, milk, or much butter, and why it still works.

During the Second World War, eggs, butter, and milk were rationed. In Britain each person was typically allowed a single fresh egg per week, so bakers turned to recipes that used none at all. The result was a family of eggless, milkless cakes that leaned on dried fruit for sweetness and moisture, and on a chemical trick, an acid reacting with baking soda, to make the cake rise without eggs.

Below is the original approach as households would have understood it, followed by a modern version with today's measurements and oven temperatures. The two are kept separate on purpose. The historical formula is a record, not a tested modern recipe.

Historical note

Two things drove this style of baking: scarcity and chemistry.

Scarcity set the ingredient list. With eggs and dairy strictly limited, a cake that a family could actually make used water in place of milk, a small amount of margarine, lard, or even saved cooking fat in place of butter, and dried fruit to carry the flavor a richer cake would have gotten from eggs and sugar. The British Ministry of Food actively promoted thrifty baking and cooking through wartime leaflets and radio talks, encouraging exactly this kind of adaptation.

Chemistry did the lifting. Eggs help a cake rise and hold together, so eggless recipes needed another source of lift. A common wartime solution was to pair an acid with baking soda. Vinegar was the usual acid, and when it met the soda it released carbon dioxide, the gas that raises the crumb. The same principle appears in the American "vinegar cake" and the eggless "crazy cake" of the same years, which mixes the batter directly in the pan.

These cakes were plain by design. They were a small comfort in a rationed kitchen rather than a celebration cake, though a fruited version often stood in for one when it had to.